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> <channel><title>Comments on: Newer cameras will probably make your photograph WORSE</title> <atom:link href="http://photographycourse.net/worse/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /><link>http://photographycourse.net/worse</link> <description>Free Film and Digital Photography Courses- All the Secrets Without the Cost!</description> <lastBuildDate>Sun, 13 May 2012 11:25:32 +0000</lastBuildDate> <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> <generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2</generator> <item><title>By: Steven</title><link>http://photographycourse.net/worse/comment-page-1#comment-37822</link> <dc:creator>Steven</dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 08 Nov 2010 04:15:48 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://photographycourse.net/worse#comment-37822</guid> <description>I&#039;ve found that if your camera is a bit sluggish taking pictures when you want them, especially on newer digital models, then you really need to make sure you&#039;ve got the recommended (or better) speed memory cards.  Right now, you can buy level 10 cards for great prices on Amazon, which is more than enough for almost all camera specs that I&#039;ve seen, on which the fastest I&#039;ve seen recommended is level 6. Remember, no penalty in buying faster memory cards than what the camera specifies.</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve found that if your camera is a bit sluggish taking pictures when you want them, especially on newer digital models, then you really need to make sure you&#8217;ve got the recommended (or better) speed memory cards.  Right now, you can buy level 10 cards for great prices on Amazon, which is more than enough for almost all camera specs that I&#8217;ve seen, on which the fastest I&#8217;ve seen recommended is level 6. Remember, no penalty in buying faster memory cards than what the camera specifies.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Carly</title><link>http://photographycourse.net/worse/comment-page-1#comment-1531</link> <dc:creator>Carly</dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 27 Apr 2009 19:20:06 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://photographycourse.net/worse#comment-1531</guid> <description>I agree with Ben who posted that it is alittle outdated.  I have a D60 and I have no problem getting the shot.  It&#039;s a matter of knowing your camera and knowing what settings to use. Great lessons on here though.</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I agree with Ben who posted that it is alittle outdated.  I have a D60 and I have no problem getting the shot.  It&#8217;s a matter of knowing your camera and knowing what settings to use. Great lessons on here though.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Derek</title><link>http://photographycourse.net/worse/comment-page-1#comment-1183</link> <dc:creator>Derek</dc:creator> <pubDate>Tue, 10 Mar 2009 16:19:24 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://photographycourse.net/worse#comment-1183</guid> <description>In order to get detail that you desire you want to keep your ISO low, 50 or 100 if possible. If your subjects are large, ancient, and dark buildings then the wonderful advantage that you have is that you don&#039;t have to worry about those subjects moving on you. I would recommend keeping the ISO setting low to maximize detail. Use a tripod for sure in order to eliminate the possibility of camera shake and perhaps have a remote shutter or timer to fire the shutter that you might reduce the risk of shaking the camera while pressing the shutter release.  As far as f-stop and shutter speeds: this will depend on the specific lighting situations. Follow the meter on your camera as your guide and remember that a smaller opening (f/22) and longer shutter speed will produce a high depth of field (most everything in focus), while a large opening(f/3.5) with a shorter shutter speed will result in a shallower depth of field (one point in focus).</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In order to get detail that you desire you want to keep your ISO low, 50 or 100 if possible. If your subjects are large, ancient, and dark buildings then the wonderful advantage that you have is that you don&#8217;t have to worry about those subjects moving on you. I would recommend keeping the ISO setting low to maximize detail. Use a tripod for sure in order to eliminate the possibility of camera shake and perhaps have a remote shutter or timer to fire the shutter that you might reduce the risk of shaking the camera while pressing the shutter release.  As far as f-stop and shutter speeds: this will depend on the specific lighting situations. Follow the meter on your camera as your guide and remember that a smaller opening (f/22) and longer shutter speed will produce a high depth of field (most everything in focus), while a large opening(f/3.5) with a shorter shutter speed will result in a shallower depth of field (one point in focus).</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Carolyn</title><link>http://photographycourse.net/worse/comment-page-1#comment-1176</link> <dc:creator>Carolyn</dc:creator> <pubDate>Tue, 10 Mar 2009 04:52:08 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://photographycourse.net/worse#comment-1176</guid> <description>Hello! I have a Canon S5 with image stabilization. I had to switch to digital years ago because I have a neck and shoulder problem which makes using the heavy zoom lenses and heavier old cameras too much of a strain.  I still see a significant time delay in shooting, and moments have been missed!  Still, the awesome focal lengths in both directions (macro and zoom)in such a light-weight camera have been inspiring for me.  My question: since a lot of my photography is of large, ancient (and dark!) buildings/ruins, what do you recommend as a &quot;go-to&quot; range with a camera? should I try to compensate for the need for a longer shutter speed by opening up my f-stops, or can the ISO feature help me to get broader, deeper coverage?  Thank you!
C</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello! I have a Canon S5 with image stabilization. I had to switch to digital years ago because I have a neck and shoulder problem which makes using the heavy zoom lenses and heavier old cameras too much of a strain.  I still see a significant time delay in shooting, and moments have been missed!  Still, the awesome focal lengths in both directions (macro and zoom)in such a light-weight camera have been inspiring for me.  My question: since a lot of my photography is of large, ancient (and dark!) buildings/ruins, what do you recommend as a &#8220;go-to&#8221; range with a camera? should I try to compensate for the need for a longer shutter speed by opening up my f-stops, or can the ISO feature help me to get broader, deeper coverage?  Thank you!<br
/> C</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: admin</title><link>http://photographycourse.net/worse/comment-page-1#comment-759</link> <dc:creator>admin</dc:creator> <pubDate>Sun, 21 Dec 2008 02:51:11 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://photographycourse.net/worse#comment-759</guid> <description>Many scanners do have a special negative slot, to scan in negatives. There are also some scanners built just for scanning negatives, or &quot;USB negative scanners&quot; as you may hear them called.  In the end the decision is yours.  It is nice to have easier access to your old photos, by getting them onto your computer.  Though scanned and printed still isn&#039;t the same as doing it the old fashion way.</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Many scanners do have a special negative slot, to scan in negatives. There are also some scanners built just for scanning negatives, or &#8220;USB negative scanners&#8221; as you may hear them called.  In the end the decision is yours.  It is nice to have easier access to your old photos, by getting them onto your computer.  Though scanned and printed still isn&#8217;t the same as doing it the old fashion way.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> </channel> </rss>
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